When I shared that we were travelling to South Korea with our seven-month-old daughter, the most common response was ‘Wow! Why Korea?!”
Well, primarily because there are direct flights from Calgary to Seoul, and if you’ve ever flown on an airplane with a baby then you know how important this is. But it’s also somewhere we’d never been, is known for being very safe with good healthcare (another must when traveling with kids) and would give us the culture we were craving without being too much of a shock.
And boy, did it ever deliver.
We explored ancient temples, marvelled at blooming cherry blossoms, took family photos dressed up in traditional Korean hanboks, hit the beach and noshed on mouth-watering street food in night markets.
We saw the countryside from the comfort of high-speed bullet trains, admired sprawling cityscapes from sky-high towers, wandered through colourful villages and even carved out some time to experience the spas and TikTok famous K-Beauty scene. Yes, these are all things you can do in Korea with kids!
Here’s how we pulled all this off and more during our one week in South Korea itinerary.
Seoul: 3 days
The first stop on a South Korea travel itinerary is almost always the high-energy capital Seoul, which boasts sky-high viewpoints, a cool cafe culture, ancient palaces, innovative spas, mouthwatering Korean barbecue joints, high-end shopping and a sea of skyscrapers.
With so much to unpack, three days in Seoul is just enough time to scratch the surface—and pre-planning is essential since it takes awhile to get between districts due to distance and traffic.
Here are some of the best things to do in Seoul:
Gyeongbokgung Palace
This picturesque royal palace was established as the main palace of the Joseon Dynasty back in 1395, and is framed by Baegaksan Mountain in central Seoul. .
Geunjeongjeon Hall is the main highlight, which once served as the throne hall of Joseon rulers; however, the sprawling site has about a dozen other buildings worth seeing and are best visited with a guide to properly understand the historical significance of each one.
Time your visit for the twice-daily Changing of the Palace Guard Ceremony. The 15 minute display is a fascinating recreation of what it was like when royal guards were responsible for guarding the main city gates back in the 1400s, with bright traditional costumes, flags, and plenty of pomp and circumstance.
The Changing of the Guard happens at 10 AM and 2 PM in front of the main entrance—snag a front row spot at least 10 minutes before as it gets quite crowded and difficult to see otherwise.
Note: Gyeongbokgung Palace is closed on Tuesdays.
Bukchon Hanok Village
The village of Bukchon Hanok is unassumingly nestled among the sea of high-rises in the heart of Seoul, offering peekaboo glimpses of the modern skyline between the famous tiled roofs.
Located a short walk from Gyeongbokgung Palace, these beautifully-preserved hanoks once served as the residences of aristocrats and high-ranking officials during the Joseon Dynasty, and are home to about 6,000 residents today.
Bukchon’s narrow alleyways that wind up the sloping hillside create photo-worthy backdrops, while artisan workshops, tea houses and small museums showcase Korean traditions.
Despite the tranquil surroundings and architecture, an astounding six million people visit this small area every year so efforts are in place to ensure tourists are respectful of residents. There are numerous signs (including some held by enforcement officers) reminding tourists to keep noise levels down, not sit on doorsteps and pack out their garbage.
A curfew is also in place, with Bukchon Hanok Village open to non-residents from 10 AM-5 PM, Monday to Saturday.
Globe Guide tip: While Bukchon Hanok is definitely worth visiting, another option is to visit Eunpyeong Hanok Village in north Seoul which is equally enchanting and far less touristy (stop in at the Irin Iljan cafe for great views).
Wear a hanbok
A fun thing to do in Seoul is wearing a hanbok, which is traditional Korean clothing usually worn during holidays, birthdays and weddings which has a long historical and cultural significance. There are plenty of rental shops around touristy areas like Gyeongbokgung Palace and Bukchon Hanok Village, which provide the perfect backdrop for photoshoots.
We paid about $20 each for a two hour rental, which to be honest felt pretty rushed since we were also trying to sightsee at the same time. I’d recommend booking here instead to get a full day rental for the same price so there’s enough time to wear it in multiple locations.
Myeong-dong
Myeong-dong is one of the most happening areas in Seoul, with a fun mix of modern hotels, restaurants and oh-so-much shopping. The pedestrian-only zone is where you’ll want to spend most of your time, especially in the evening when the night market starts up and you can sample all sorts of Korean specialties (I’m partial to the chicken skewers).
If you’re in the market for skincare this is your spot–in fact, it’s actually quite overwhelming just how many K-beauty stores there are here.
At all hours of the day you can expect someone to try to lure you into their store with a sample of innovative serum or discounts on skincare masks, and you’ll also find a couple of the famous Olive Young beauty stores here.
Namsan Park
For one of the best views in Seoul, head up to Namsan Park. The all-in-one attraction boasts walking trails, dozens of eateries, shops, an observatory and lookout points with mesmerizing views of the sprawling city.
The site can be accessed by walking, bus or taking a cable car up. The entrance for that is conveniently just a 10 minute walk from the Myeongdong district, but be warned that lineups can be long and there are staircases which aren’t stroller/wheelchair friendly.
Namsan Park is home to the N Seoul Tower, a 236-metre-tall radio transmitting structure and the second highest point in Seoul.
Many of the park’s restaurants and attractions are found inside, as well as the observation deck with 360° city views. However, it’s not necessary to spring for admission since the free lookout points in the park are also quite impressive.
Gangnam
Our first stop in the famous Gangnam district was a giant bronze statue dedicated to Psy, the South Korean singer whose hit song Gangnam Style took the world by storm. In case you forget the dance moves, there’s a small video player beside it that shows the music video on repeat.
The statue is erected in front of the Starfield COEX Mall, a gargantuan complex housing more than 300 stores and restaurants.
We made a beeline for the COEX Aquarium, a fantastic kid-friendly activity where guests can see the likes of massive manta rays, sharks and colourful schools of jellyfish swimming right by.
The mall’s most popular attraction is the Byeolmadang Library, better known as the Starfield Library. This Instagram-famous spot impresses with its two-storey, 13 metre high bookshelves which hold an astounding 70-thousand books, and you’ll likely see throngs of people riding the escalators up and down to get a shot in front of them.
Globe Guide tip: Go early in the morning or later in the day to avoid the crowds.
Book one of these recommended guided experiences in Seoul:
Suggested 3 day Seoul itinerary
Day 1: Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, Insadong Culture Street
Day 2: Namsan Park, Nandaemun Market and Myeongdong Street
Day 3: Gangnam
READ MORE: The ultimate 3 day Seoul itinerary for first time visitors
Where to stay in Seoul
Aloft Seoul Myeongdong
We stayed at the Aloft for the first three nights of our Korea trip, and the location is absolute perfection for sightseeing in Seoul. This high-rise hotel is in the heart of the Myeongdong district, literally around the corner from the night market and shopping. There’s a subway entrance and multiple bus stops on its doorstep, the airport bus is just down the block, and it’s just a 10 minute walk to Namsan Park.
The updated, clean property has great city views from the higher floors, yet the street noise never seemed loud. The front desk staff are very helpful with answering questions, and there’s an on-site restaurant, coin-operated laundry, gym and rooftop terrace. Click here to book
Fairmont Ambassador Seoul
This luxe property absolutely wows from the moment you step through the front doors, thanks to its high-impact, dazzling design features and skyline views.
Located along the south banks of the Han River next to the high-end Hyundai Seoul department store and IFC Mall in the Yeongdeungpo district, the Fairmont is more popular with the business crowd since it’s a bit far from the touristy landmarks.
However, leisure travellers will still appreciate this spot–especially during a quick layover–since there’s an airport bus stop directly out front and it feels like an oasis of calm despite the busy surroundings.
All of the modern rooms aside from the suites and penthouse are similarly styled with large comfortable beds, a desk, coffee bar area, lounger, closet and sleek marble bathroom.
There’s plenty of space to move around which is a bit of a rarity when it comes to hotel rooms in Seoul and cleverly, the walls slide around to reconfigure the spaces between the entrance, bathroom and closet area.
Amenities at the Fairmont Ambassador Seoul include one of the largest, well-equipped hotel gyms I’ve ever seen, a spa, indoor pool for guests aged five and up, and Korean saunas.
Staying here was a great option for our last night in Seoul after returning from Busan at the end of the trip, giving us the chance to see a different part of the city and unwind like a real vacation before the long flight home. Click here to book
Busan: 3 days
The coastal city of Busan was the next stop on our itinerary for Korea after a two hour ride on the bullet train from the capital, beloved for its sun-soaked beaches, spa culture and seaside walks.
While Seoul is more of a ‘sightseeing’ spot, Busan feels like a true getaway and is much better for traveling with kids.
The port city’s population sits around 3.4 million people, yet only feels busy when driving through downtown during rush hour. Otherwise, we found it quick and easy to get around by both bus and taxi with most of the highlights only about a 10 minute drive from each other.
You also won’t see as many signs in English here, which was a refreshing change and made us feel like we were more engrossed in Korean culture.
Globe Guide tip: Purchase a physical Visit Busan pass to save money on multiple attractions, which can also be topped up with money at a convenience store to use for public transit.
Some of the best things to do in Busan with kids are:
Songdo Beach
Soak up the sun on these golden sands, then stroll across the 365-metre-long Songdo Cloud Walk (or Songdo Skywalk) which has a clear glass floor to peer straight down at the swirling surf.
Songdo Sea Cable Car
Gliding 86 metres high over the dazzling Songdo Sea in one of the Busan Air Cruise cable cars was our absolute favourite activity in Busan, thanks to the breathtaking views.
After boarding at Songdo Beach, riders are whisked across to Songdo Sky Park where the Songdo Yonggung Cloud Bridge, a children’s playground and quiet, forested trails await.
Globe Guide tip: Reserve one of the Crystal Cars, which have transparent floors.
Gamcheon Culture Village
Wander through this fascinating, picturesque neighbourhood famous for its maze of colourful homes stacked into the hillside that once housed refugees of the Korean war.
The bustling top section is lined with souvenir shops, cafes, dessert bars and lookout points, while the narrow streets become much quieter as you make your way lower down and get a glimpse of what real life is like here.
Globe Guide tip: Budget at least a couple of hours to explore Gamcheon, go early to beat the tour bus crowds, and leave the stroller behind as there are lots of stairs.
Haeundae Blueline Park
One of the most popular things to do in Busan is taking a ride on the Instagram-worthy Sky Capsule through an elevated track in this seafront park. Take the Beach Train back or enjoy the leisurely walk along the wooden boardwalk (it’s stroller-friendly!), and be sure to stop at both skywalks along the route.
READ MORE: A guide to Busan’s Instagram-worthy Sky Capsule
Haeundae Beach
This happening area is packed with sunbathers in the summer months, and its lively promenade is lined with attractions including the SEALIFE Busan Aquarium, BUSAN X the SKY Tower which has an observation deck on the 100th floor, and CLUBD OASIS.
CLUBD OASIS
The multi-level complex bills itself as an urban wellness hot spring, boasting a huge waterpark complete with an outdoor waterslide, multiple pools and a complete spa experience that can be enjoyed by all ages—yes, we brought our baby to the spa!
Mens and womens change rooms each have a traditional Korean spa inside (which means you’ll have to strip down to your birthday suit if you want to enjoy a soak) and there are shared hot pools, saunas, a salt room, ice room, walking foot bath and relaxation areas.
Huinnyeoul Culture Village
Described as ‘The Santorini of Busan’ thanks to its pastel streetscapes, stroll through the seafront neighbourhood then meander back along the tranquil Jeoryeong Coastal Walk.
Nampo-dong
This downtown district is lined with Korean restaurants, food markets, a cinema and the Gwangbokro Fashion Street which has clothing and K-Beauty stores. Sample street eats in BIFF Square, then head up to Yongdusan Park to enjoy panoramic views from the 120-metre-tall Busan Tower.
Book one of these recommended guided experiences in Busan
Suggested 3 day Busan itinerary:
Day 1: Songdo Beach, Busan Air Cruise and Huinnyeoul Culture Village
Day 2: Gamcheon Culture Village, Nampo-dong (Busan Tower and BIFF Square)
Day 3: Haeundae (Sky Capsule, beach, food market and spa)
READ MORE: Skywalks, beaches and (naked!) spas: A 3 day Busan itinerary
Where to stay in Busan
Fairfield by Marriott Busan Songdo Beach
We really hit the hotel jackpot picking this spot for our four nights in Busan, and I can’t rave about it enough.
The Fairfield overlooks the golden sands of Songdo Beach, just steps from the Songdo Cloud Trails, Busan Air Cruise and a row of cafes and restaurants. Its location is absolute perfection since it’s only a 10-20 minute drive to landmarks like Busan Tower, the Gamcheon and Huinnyeoul culture villages, BIFF square and the main train/bus stations.
Our jaws dropped when we checked into our room: the views from the floor-to-ceiling windows were absolutely incredible and made it feel like we were right on the water.
The sprawling suite was sleek and modern, with luxe touches like a deep soaker tub, separate shower and cozy king size bed.
This room type is an incredible setup for families, with a primary bedroom and ensuite bathroom, a separate living room (where our daughter slept) with a couch, table, mini-bar, small fridge, closet and second half-bathroom.
Both rooms have their own TV and fabulous views, and I loved the oversize lounger built into the primary bedroom. It was the perfect spot to relax while our baby safely played on the soft cushions, while enjoying the view of the cable cars and beach without feeling like we were missing any of the action.
The Fairfield is ideal for longer stays as well with laundry facilities, a fitness centre, rooftop deck and parking.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served at Songdo Kitchen on the 22nd floor, and Marriott Bonvoy members can enjoy complimentary breakfast for one child when breakfast is reserved for two adults per room.
Overall, our exceptional stay at the Fairfield was one of the top highlights of our trip to Korea, with the laid-back vibe and scenic surroundings really making it feel like a vacation. Click here to book
Gyeongju: 1 day
If a glimpse into Korea’s rich history is what you’re after, then you’ll definitely want to include Gyeongju on your South Korea itinerary.
The spread-out city is like a living museum, with a dizzying array of impressive temples and tombs, pagodas, three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and traditions dating back to the Silla Kingdom.
It feels like going hundreds of years back in time, yet everything is so beautiful and well-kept it almost doesn’t seem real.
The Gyeongju Special Tourist Zone is where most of the Hanok-style buildings and historic sites are located, including:
- Daereungwon Royal Tombs
- Hwangnidan-gil, where traditional hanok architecture blends with trendy shops
- Cheomseongdae Observatory
- Woljeong Bridge
- Donggung Palace, which is breathtaking in the evening when its buildings are lit up and reflect off Wolji Pond
There are two other popular sites worth visiting about 30 minutes from Gyeongju’s tourist zone —unfortunately, they’re in opposite directions so you’ll likely have to choose just one to visit.
One is Yangdong Village, Korea’s largest traditional village showcasing the traditional culture of the Joseon dynasty which has been visited by King Charles. We instead opted to visit Bulguska Temple, which served as a centre of Silla Buddhism.
The temple was completed in 774, burned down by Japanese invaders in 1593, completely restored in the 1970s, then designated as a UNESCO site in 1996.
Today, visitors come to admire the complex which houses the granite Seokguram Grotto, various Buddha statues which are considered masterpieces of East Asian Buddhist art, and ancient stone pagodas. Oh, and there a LOT of steep staircases to get between the wooden buildings which are on raised stone terraces.
Bulguksa Temple can be packed on the weekends, so go on a weekday instead if possible. It’s also one of the best places to see cherry blossoms in spring, so brace for extra crowds if you’re visiting during this magical season.
Busan to Gyeongju: Tips for getting there and around
Gyeongju is often done as a day trip from Busan–which we did–as it’s just a 30 minute train ride or hour long drive. Each option has its advantages depending on where you’re staying in Busan: the KTX is faster and only about $10 each way, but the train station isn’t near the tourist zone or Bulguska Temple so you’ll also need to take a cab or bus.
If I’m being honest, Gyeongju is a bit tough as a day trip when travelling with kids, and would be especially hard with toddlers in tow. The sites are spread out, I didn’t see any playgrounds or rides near the main attractions, and sightseeing requires a lot of walking through areas that aren’t always stroller friendly.
My biggest tip is to rent a golf cart. You’ll find vendors loaning them out on streets along the southeast section of the tourist zone heading towards the Cheomseongdae Observatory, and they fit about four people which makes getting around a breeze.
Another option is hopping on the electric Jewel Beetle Bus, which does a 35 minute loop around the observatory, Gyochon Village and Wolseong Promotion Center so you can tour them without all the walking.
Another idea (if your kids can handle a 12 hour day) is to book one of these guided day tours. You’ll get picked up and dropped off right at the sites, and stay long enough to see the landmarks lit up:
Book with GetYourGuide
In retrospect we should have stayed overnight in Gyeongju in lieu of the extra night in Busan or Seoul, which would have saved us some extra transportation costs, travel time and given us the opportunity to see the temples when they’re lit up at night.
The reason we did it as a day trip was to avoid any stress/mishaps about getting all the way back to Seoul on the same day as an international flight, and the train ride would have added several hours to an already long travel day. However, if you’re comfortable with that then I’d definitely suggest spending a night in Gyeongju instead.
Tips for traveling around South Korea (with kids)
Overall, South Korea worked out quite well as a family trip: it’s not overly expensive, there’s tons to see whether you’re interested in history and culture or nature and relaxation, and Koreans seem to absolutely love babies–our daughter was completely fawned over everywhere we went!
Each hotel we booked provided a crib without issue, many restaurants had high chairs and plastic cutlery/dishes, and I was especially impressed with the semi-private nursing rooms in the Seoul airport and in some train stations—if only every airport had a space like this!
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Transportation
The only part I found tricky about visiting Korea with kids is getting around, specifically in Seoul. It’s not a very walkable city since it’s so large and the attractions are spread out, so we spent a lot of time stuck in traffic.
It was much easier in Busan, especially because the Fairfield we stayed at had lots of bus stops nearby.
Public transportation like subways and buses are well organized and reliable, and the buses often have dedicated lanes so they don’t get stuck in gridlock. However, this isn’t always the easiest option with a fussy infant or a stroller when there’s no elevator around, so we primarily used taxis since they’re also relatively inexpensive.
I was very impressed with the inter-city train stations when we took trips on the bullet train between Seoul, Busan and Gyeongju. Not only were our trains always on time (I’m looking at you, Germany), but there was at least 15 minutes notice about which track it would be on as well as where to stand depending on which car your seat was reserved for.
I love that seats are selected ahead of time to prevent boarding chaos, and you’ll be amazed at how quiet it is onboard. If you’re travelling with little ones, try to reserve seats in the train cars designated as ‘for conversations and infants’ —that’s seriously a thing, and you can still hear a pin drop!
Be sure to read this article about what to know before visiting South Korea like how to use public transportation, tips for booking KTX trains, and the apps you’ll definitely want to download ahead of time.
READ MORE: Helpful things you need to know before traveling to South Korea
Drinking water
There are public water fountains at some of the main attractions and airports in places like Seoul and Busan which are safe to drink from. However, some hotels don’t have potable water right out of the faucet and provide it in a machine next to the sink or on the mini bar instead.
For cleaning our daughter’s bottles, I brought dish soap and used the potable water to rinse them before leaving them on this portable rack to dry overnight. For formula, we boiled the potable water in a kettle then poured it into a water bottle. We’d bring that with us during the day, and mix it with the powder I kept in a ziploc bag to easily prepare bottles on the go.
Ideas for a longer itinerary in Korea
Have more time? Lucky you! There were loads of attractions and places we didn’t have time to visit during our 7 day South Korea itinerary.
If you have a few extra days, I’d recommend additional time in Seoul, Busan and Gyeongju to enjoy a slower pace, or head to one of these spots:
The DMZ
A half or full day excursion to the Korean Demilitarized Zone is one of the most popular day trips from Seoul, being only a one hour drive north of the city. Walk across a scenic suspension bridge stretching over what was once a fierce battlefield, peek into tunnels that were built to invade South Korea from the North side and learn all about the historical significance of this infamous area from a well-versed guide.
Seoraksan National Park
If fresh air and breathtaking vistas are calling your name, hightail it to Seoraksan National Park. Famed for its craggy, towering peaks and cascading waterfalls, there are fantastic day hikes like the Biseondae Rock trail to accommodate most skill levels (along with a cable car for those who aren’t feeling the exertion).
It’s the perfect place to see South Korea’s natural landscapes, and accommodations can be found nearby for those who want to stay overnight to properly explore this scenic spot. Since it’s only about a 2 ½ hour drive east of Seoul, it’s also possible to visit as a day trip.
Jeju Island
This stunning, self-governing island paradise off the southern coast of the Korean peninsula is described as ‘The Hawaii of Korea’ for good reason. After a short flight from the mainland (fun fact: the journey between Seoul and Jeju is the world’s busiest air route–who knew?!), you’ll arrive to find luxury resorts, coastal walks and oh-so-many beaches.
Recognized as a UNESCO Global Geopark, visitors can also see craters, volcanic cones and waterfalls. The best way to get around is by renting a car, and you’ll want to budget at least a few days here as there are so many natural wonders to see.
Book one of these top-rated day trips with Viator
Book with GetYourGuide
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