A grand hilltop castle, lively festivals, tranquil parks, a labyrinth of underground alleyways, ghost tours and oh-so-many pubs: these are just some of the highlights of Scotland’s fantastic capital city, Edinburgh.
Every person I’ve ever met who’s explored the city loves it, and after spending a few days here it’s easy to see why it lives up to the hype. A medieval old town and elegant Georgian new town serve up quintessential Scottish experiences, like listening to bagpipers in the rainbow-hued streets and sampling drams of Scotch in tasting rooms.
Most of the main attractions in Edinburgh are conveniently concentrated around the castle area, and it’s extremely walkable–as long as you don’t mind a lot of stairs. The capital is an ideal spot to kick off a Scotland road trip itinerary, as it’s definitely possible to squeeze the highlights into a 48 hour stay–say, during a city break weekend in Edinburgh.
From what to see to the best spots to stay, here’s everything you need to know to make the most of 2 days in Edinburgh, Scotland.
Globe Guide note: Lucky enough to have some extra time in the city? This guide also includes ideas for how to spend 3 days in Edinburgh, as well as some fun day trip ideas for exploring outside the capital.
Day 1: Edinburgh Castle, The Royal Mile, Victoria Street, Grassmarket Square, Scotch whisky tasting
Edinburgh Castle
Kick off your itinerary for Edinburgh at the famed castle, which is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe and part of the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh World Heritage Site.
The grand main gates lead to highlights like the Great Hall displaying military arsenal, St Margaret’s Chapel which is Edinburgh’s oldest building, barracks, the National War Museum and the Royal Palace and apartments.
Visiting in the afternoon? Don’t miss the One O’Clock Gun: the tradition started in 1861 as a way for ships to set their maritime clocks, and a master gunner sets it off every day at 1 p.m. except Sundays, Good Friday and Christmas Day.
One of the best vantage points in Edinburgh is found near Mill’s Mount Battery and along the fortified castle walls, affording views of Old Town, New Town, Princes Street Gardens and Holyrood Park.
There are also washrooms, gift shops, a cafe and The Tea Rooms eatery on site.
Globe Guide tip: Entrance tickets for the castle can sell out well in advance, so make sure to reserve yours at least a few days ahead of time.
The Royal Mile
Fittingly, the road leading back through town from the castle gates is called The Royal Mile.
It’s a hub of activity lined with souvenir shops, cathedrals, Scottish clothing stores and The Witchery, an Instagram-famous hotel and restaurant which looks like something straight out of a Harry Potter novel.
You’re sure to see a couple of bagpipers or buskers as you wander along the lively street, which is also the starting point for some ghost tours and attractions like The Real Mary King’s Close.
I’m not normally the biggest history buff, but this tour is actually quite interesting as visitors get to head underground and explore a labyrinth of Old Town alleyways which has remained unchanged since the 1750s.
Guides dressed in period costumes share stories about plague doctors, the families who lived here, and what their daily life was like. Let’s just say it wasn’t exactly as cushy as we have it these days, with over a dozen people usually occupying one small room and chamber pots constantly being emptied right into the street!
Tours run several times a day, and tickets can be purchased online or at the entrance.
Victoria Street
Scotland’s most photographed street is just down the hill from the castle, where a picture-perfect laneway of shops, restaurants and a hotel await.
Victoria Street is believed to have been J.K. Rowling’s inspiration for ‘Diagon Alley’, and fans of the boy wizard flock here in droves for a selfie.
There’s often a queue for Robert Cresser’s Brush Shop, which was founded in 1873 and features original Victorian fixtures like dusty boxes and broomsticks. Inside you’ll find Museum Context chock full of official Harry Potter merchandise like first edition books, a Hogwarts wax seal and Gryffindor journal (fancy a £47 wand, anyone?).
Grassmarket
Just down the hill and around the corner from Victoria Street is Grassmarket, one of the city’s most happening stretches particularly on Saturdays when there’s an outdoor market.
On warm summer days, patios are packed with both locals and tourists soaking up the sunshine while people watching and enjoying the view of the castle just up the hillside.
The street is lined with pubs and clubs pumping loud music long into the wee hours of the morning on weekends, making this a popular spot for revelers–especially those visiting for bachelor and hen parties.
Globe Guide tip: Hula Grassmarket at the corner of Victoria Street is a fantastic spot to grab a coffee or brunch, with healthy, yummy options like smoothies, poke and acai bowls which you don’t always come by easily in the UK.
Scotch whisky tasting
End your first day in Edinburgh by raising a dram of scotch. Even if drinking–or whisky, or that matter–isn’t usually your thing, it’s well worth visiting a tasting room or distillery as they’re such a key part of Scotland’s history and culture.
Notable tasting rooms in the city are the Johnnie Walker Scotch Whisky Experience which has a variety of guided tours with custom cocktails and pairings, and the Scotch Whisky Experience I opted for found along the Royal Mile right beside the castle.
Home to one of the world’s largest collections of unopened Scotch whisky, the guided immersive experience tells the whole story of scotch: malts and blends, how to properly taste, and differences between the Islay, Campbeltown, Lowland, Speyside and Highland regions where it’s produced.
Guests visit multiple rooms along the way learning how single malt Scotch whisky is made (a process unchanged over centuries), enjoy some samples, then head into a room housing the utterly impressive Diageo Claive Vidiz scotch whisky collection.
Hundreds of bottles line the shelves which is absolutely stunning to look at, and an extra special place to enjoy one last sip before the tour ends.
There are five different types of experiences, ranging from the 50 minute Silver tour we did (an overview and single pour), to the three-hour Taste of Scotland which includes a 90 minute tour, tastes of five single malt whiskies, a gift bag, three course Scottish food experience and dessert with a dram of whisky.
There’s also an on-site restaurant, whisky bar and gift shop. Slàinte mhaith (cheers)!
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Day 2: Holyrood Park, Arthur’s Seat and ghost tours
Now that you’ve seen some of the major landmarks, the second part of your 2 day Edinburgh itinerary is all about scenic spots and digging into the city’s somewhat spooky history.
Holyrood Park
One of the best free things to do in Edinburgh is enjoying a long, leisurely walk through one of its many green spaces or taking a short hike up to a panoramic vista–Holyrood Park has both!
The park is about a 30 minute walk from the castle straight down the Royal Mile, and is home to Arthur’s Seat, an ancient volcano that offers incredible city views.
Globe Guide tip: Holyrood Park is a local favourite to watch both sunrise and sunset, so time your arrival accordingly for great photos
Holyrood features tranquil lochs, rugged hills, bogs, chapel ruins and Holyrood Palace, so it’s a great place to spend half a day feeling like you’ve escaped to nature while still being in the heart of the city.
Other great walks in Edinburgh are up to Calton Hill which boasts several neoclassical structures and great views, and the Princes Street Gardens in the shadow of the castle which has landscaped gardens, sculptures, fountains and lookout points.
New Town
In the afternoon, head down into Edinburgh’s buzzing New Town, which has a totally different vibe from the historic side with modern buildings, high-end boutiques and upscale eateries.
Notable spots include picturesque St. Andrew Square, The National Galleries of Scotland for art lovers, and George Street for shopping.
Grab lunch at Edinburgh Street Food: it’s like an elevated food court with lots of great grab ‘n go options, and way cheaper than the fare you’ll find at more touristy restaurants up the hill.
Ghost tours
Late in the day, discover the city’s dark side during a ghost tour, which is one of the top things to do in Edinburgh at night. With so many dark alleyways, eerie underground vaults and graveyards, there’s no shortage of haunted tales around here.
Hear chilling stories from a creepily costumed guide of the city’s most infamous residents, body snatchers and perhaps the ‘Mackenzie Poltergeist,’ who is said to be one of the most aggressive spirits around.
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3 days in Edinburgh: Itinerary ideas
Lucky enough to have more than two days in Edinburgh? Spend your third day doing another scenic hike, history tour, or head out of town for a day trip–a great perk about travelling in Scotland is a lot of the main sites are relatively close together!
Edinburgh day trips
It only takes an hour by car or train to get to the lively city of Glasgow which is known for its thriving arts scene, or head to the coast and hit the links at St. Andrews, the home of golf.
The Scottish Highlands are deservedly popular, and you can get to Loch Lomond in 90 minutes to see the lake and charming Luss, which is considered the most beautiful village in Scotland.
READ MORE: Why charming Luss is the most beautiful village in Scotland
If you’re OK with making a big day of it, book one of these 12 hour organized bus tours which head all the way to gorgeous spots like Glencoe, Loch Ness and the Glenfinnan Viaduct (another Instagrammable Harry Potter spot):
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How to get around Edinburgh
Edinburgh is very walkable, so you likely won’t need to hop on the tram or in a cab to see the sites. If you have luggage it’s a different story: lugging suitcases up stairs, hills and cobblestone streets is not for the faint of heart!
To get from the airport to the city centre, taxis cost about £25 while the tram is £7.50 per person. The station and ticket office is well marked near the arrivals area, and trams run several times an hour.
The main train station– Edinburgh Waverley– is downtown between the old town and modern Edinburgh, offering rail connections around the UK for those heading onward to cities like Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen and London.
Where to stay in Edinburgh
Fancy a unique spot to sleep in Edinburgh? Then book into one of the luxury cabins aboard the Fingal Hotel, a former Northern Lighthouse Board ship. Featuring sleek cabins and dining areas, feel like you’re part of maritime heritage while docked in the Historic Port of Leith not too far from the city centre.
The Ocean Mist Leith offers a similarly memorable floating experience, with a 1920s nautical theme and easy tram access into downtown.
Virgin Hotels Edinburgh: I could go on and on about how great this hotel is, we absolutely loved everything about it! So, the highlights: swoon-worthy decor, lovely staff, modern, bright rooms, a rooftop patio with glorious views and a very cool cocktail bar on site.
Best of all is its prime location right on Victoria Street, so guests are just steps away from the best things to do in Edinburgh. Book on Expedia or Reserve on Booking.com
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I’ve read soooo many articles about Edinburgh and Scotland as we have a trip planned in May. Yours is the best by far. Thank you so much!