The air was so still that there wasn’t even the hint of a breeze rustling the tree branches, which were so close to my balcony I could almost reach out and touch them.
Curled up in a cozy blanket I took a big deep breath, lulled into much-needed relaxation by the spectacular view of the pristine lake in front of me framed by a rose-hued glow on the surrounding mountain peaks, illuminated by the evening’s alpenglow.
Suddenly, the sound of a small splash and flash of white caught my attention. Jumping up and peering far down over the railings to the banks below, I gasped with delight as I caught a glimpse of a massive bald eagle with a vibrant yellow beak that had landed on a log-–likely hoping to snag some fish for a nighttime snack.
His razor-sharp vision clocked my movement above and he spread his marvelous wings, flying off somewhere into the thick forests as quickly as he’d appeared.
This magical moment set the tone for our weekend stay at Emerald Lake Lodge, one of the most beloved and iconic properties in the Canadian Rockies.
Emerald Lake Lodge
Emerald Lake Lodge is located in Yoho National Park near Field, B.C. which is a two hour drive from Calgary (the closest airport), 20 minutes west of Lake Louise, and about half an hour from Golden.
Built back in 1902 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, it features hand-hewn timber and massive stone fireplaces, relaxing seating areas, dining rooms, a bar, lounge and lovely views from the large windows overlooking the water.
A series of cabins line the property’s 13-acre peninsula housing the guest rooms, and most have at least a partial view of the mesmerizing jade waters.
Emerald Lake Lodge is incredibly special to visit no matter what time of year you visit, even when it’s covered with snow.
While there’s usually ice until June, we visited in late May and were thrilled to find it had melted already and felt like a sunny summer day.
The mesmerizing hue is best seen during bright days in July and August when the sunlight reflects off glacial silt and rock flour in the water, yet changes frequently with the light and season so it’s always a surprise no matter when you visit!
Day trippers are welcome to wander through the property and dine in the restaurants, but there’s something special about staying overnight as a guest since you’ll have these captivating views all to yourself at sunrise and sunset without the crowds:
Rooms at Emerald Lake Lodge
There are 24 cabin-style buildings lining the shores along the property with multiple units in each one, which can accommodate a total of about 200 guests.
Focusing on environmental protection in the national park, the trees along the shoreline have not been disturbed so only a few select suites have unobstructed lake views, which gives most rooms a bit of a cozy treehouse feel.
We stayed in a Signature Room which has a large outdoor balcony along the waterfront, King size bed, a day bed (which aren’t in every single one), mini-fridge and wet bar, bathroom with a rainfall shower and a seating area in front of a beautiful wood-burning fireplace.
These suites are recently renovated for a slightly nicer, more modern feel, yet still maintain the charming, rustic vibe keeping with the untouched surroundings. Click here to book
The Lodge and Lake View rooms have similar amenities, with the difference being that they haven’t been renovated. The Lodge Plus rooms are another option for those interested in an updated room, though these ones overlook the greener Emerald Lake Lagoon instead of the lake.
Emerald Suites feature a private half wrap-around balcony with views of the lake and treed shore, and come in configurations of either studios or one bedroom suites, plus a dining table, lounge area and couch.
The most exclusive suite on property is called the Point Cabin, which has the best view of Emerald Lake from its full wraparound balcony, a King size bed, two bathrooms including a whirlpool bath, full living room, dining area and refrigerator.
Pet friendly rooms are also available for a small additional fee, which includes beds, bowls and complimentary treats for your four-legged friend.
Note: None of the rooms have air conditioners, so a small fan provides a bit of relief in the summer months.
Dining at Emerald Lake Lodge
This is definitely a place where you won’t go hungry. CRMR (the resort company that owns this lodge and others including Buffalo Mountain Lodge) has a strong culinary focus, serving up hearty dishes at all of its properties that showcase regional specialties like game meats and local veggies.
The Mount Burgess Dining Room in the main lodge serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, while the adjoining Kicking Horse Lounge is the perfect spot to enjoy a post-hike bevvy or happy hour cocktail.
Saddle up to the bar and watch the bartenders craft creative cocktails, or relax on one of the cozy couches in front of a fireplace.
The Kicking Horse Coffee Bar opens at 7 AM to give early risers their caffeine kick, and packed breakfasts and lunches are available to pre-order the night before.
The final option is Cilantro on the Lake, a photo-worthy eatery that’s become Instagram-famous thanks to its idyllic perch over the gem-toned water. Open from 12-7 PM daily, it offers lite bites like pizza, salad and sandwiches while the Window at Cilantro on the Lake beside the entrance has grab ‘n go options.
Amenities at Emerald Lake Lodge
Guests are encouraged to unplug and soak in the natural surroundings: there’s no cell phone coverage, the only place to get a WiFi signal is in the main lodge, and the single TV on property is tucked into the back corner of the billiards room.
In this cozy games room you’ll find large overstuffed leather couches surrounding a century-old stone fireplace, a pool table, an armoire full of books and board games and an oak bar salvaged from a 1890’s saloon in the Yukon.
A separate building called The Clubhouse has a sauna and tiny gym, leading to the outdoor hot tub overlooking the lake. There’s a large outdoor fire pit nearby, and s’mores kits can be purchased for a tasty treat.
Things to do near Emerald Lake Lodge
When driving to the lodge, guests park in a separate lot located before the main visitor parking area near the lakefront, then call a shuttle to get taken to check-in. It turns out we didn’t need our car once during our stay, as there’s so much to explore right from the lodge.
A popular option is to rent a canoe, which costs $100 per hour. This is the only way to get out on the water (without swimming!) since the national park doesn’t permit any personal watercraft, and along with being fun it makes for a great photo-op.
A handful of hiking trails start at the lakefront, whether you’re looking for a quick walk or an hours-long adventure into the backcountry. Popular picks are:
The Emerald Lake Loop: As its name suggests, this spectacular 5.2 kilometre trail circles the waterfront along a mostly-flat dirt pathway. The reflections are surreal, you’ll get to see the lodge and mountain ranges from different angles, and it’s an easy, family-friendly walk that only takes about 90 minutes.
Hamilton Falls: This quick jaunt up a tree-in trail leads to a powerful waterfall with remnants of hydro-power artifacts. The 1.6 km out-and-back hike only takes about half an hour, though it does require a couple of water crossings to properly see the falls.
If you have a vehicle, nearby attractions that are worth the quick drive include Takakkaw Falls, Wapta Falls, the Spiral Tunnels, Lake Louise and the Natural Bridge.
Whether you choose to spend your time relaxing, adventuring, or some combination of both, a stay at Emerald Lake Lodge is the quintessential Canadian experience and an unforgettable getaway in the heart of the Rockies.
Globe Guide experienced Emerald Lake Lodge in collaboration with CRMR. As always, hosts have no editorial influence on articles.
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